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| Fantastic views from 1470 m summit of Mt. Luxmore |
Location: Lake Te Anau, Fiordland NP, South Island
Distance: ~24 km return trip
Hiking Time: 9 hrs
Start Elevation: 220 m
Max Elevation: 1470 m
Trailhead: Kepler Track control gate, 4.5 km from Te-Anau townsite
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Kepler Track is one of the most celebrated multi-day tramps in New Zealand. About 60 km in length it travels through some of the most spectacular terrain of Fiordland National Park -- true Lord of the Rings territory! The proximity to Te-Anau townsite makes it very attractive proposition. Normally it takes about 3-4 days to hike the entire loop, with camping allowed only in designated areas. Several huts along the way are usually pre-booked during the tramping season -- walk-ins are not recommended. Hiking anti-clockwise is preferred allowing a more gradual climb of 1000 m through cool beech forest to the bushline. It is also necessary to pre-arrange the transportation as Rainbow Beech and Te-Anau (start and end control gates) are some 15 km apart. |
I arrived to Lake Te-Anau on Wednesday, March 24 after spectacular drive along great Southern Ocean from Invercargill. I did not plan on hiking Kepler Track; my objective was visit to famous Milford Sound. But when I was checking in to the motel, I was told that 120 km Milford Road (Hwy 94) was closed 2 days ago because of huge landslide. Crews were in the middle of cleanup, and re-opening was expected on Friday; that left me with full day to spare. In park center they recommended to take a boat (about 40 NZD) across the lake to Brod Bay, then hike around the lake back to the townsite. I poked some more on the Internet and saw how this is really just the start of Kepler Track I heard so much about. Day hike of first leg to Luxmore Hut looked like feasible option, and decision was made!
Lake Te-Anau from the townsite the night before. Mt. Luxmore is the snowy peak just left of center. Boat for Brod Bay departs from the jetty at several times in the morning; I decided against taking it as I ddin't want to rush the return -- I figured 5 km extra walk (each way) is not such a big deal. In retrospect that was the right decision.
Next morning I drove to the Te Anau Kepler control gate at south end of the Lake. Huge parking lot, and som interpretive signs testified of the popularity. Here we see the tasteful sign at the trailhead. The weather was overcast, with chances for afternoon clearing. I was really looking forward to the adventure ahead!
First part to Brod Bay was flat and wide -- about 5.3 km. It took me just under an hour of fast pace through some remarkable forest. It was similar to the hike along west shore of upper Kananskis Lake in Alberta, Canada.
Beyond Brod Bay the track passes through nice campsite, then turns away from the lake and elevation gain starts. The track is beautifully graded and well maintained. After about an hour or so I reached Limestone Bluffs at about 740 m of altitude. Here the trail makes horizontal traverse under the cliffs on some exceptionally well constructed foot bridges, then climbs series of ladders to the top of the Bluffs. It is similar to hike up first peak of Stawamus Chief near Squamish in British Columbia.
After Limestone Bluffs, there is still some 45 minutes to the treeline. The forest was simply enchanting -- I was half expecting Frodo to pop-up and say "Hello"! I should have taken many more pictures here.
I reached treeline some 3 hours into the hike at about 1000 m altitude. Next 45 minutes the track traverses mostly level plateau to Luxmore Hut with some sweeping 360 views. The skies started clearing up promising fabulous afternoon!
Final approach to Luxmore Hut some 3.5 - 4 hours since I left the Trailhead. This is typically overnight spot for people doing entire Track, as well as turning point for dayhikers. Beyond the Hut the track switchbacks up the green slope and enters the bowl under Mt. Luxmore. I stopped for the break, then considered my options. The sign indicated presence of caves worth exploring; but the temptation of bagging a Kiwi summit was simply too strong to ignore!
Wide bowl under Mt. Luxmore with snow starting at about 1200 altitude. The track rises diagonally to the right, then reaches Luxmore saddle at 1400 m -- highest point on Kepler Track. The summit is about 10 minutes of easy scramble from here.
The wind was very strong on the summit, so I spent only few minutes to snap photos. For return I took more direct route straight down the north side aiming to intersect Kepler Track. This idea worked very well and with some minor scrambling I was soon hiking back towards Luxmore hut and enjoying some spectacular afternoon views. Here is the view back to the summit from descent ridge.
Fabulous views from Lake Te-Anau to far reaches of Fiordland National Park on descent. I've hiked in all continents around the world, but to this day this remains one of most spectacular views I've experienced!
The descent was uneventful I trail ran most of the way and managed to beat the dark and the rain as the skies were closing again. I felt tremendous; I knew I just did one of these special hikes I will remember for a lifetime! When I drove back to Te-Anau townsite I was treated to this view -- fitting finale to a great day in one of true gems of thie planet. Highly recommended!
