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| Jagged snow-capped peaks of Fiordland NP from Key Summit |
Location: Fiordland NP, South Island
Distance: ~12 km return trip
Hiking Time: 3 hrs
Start Elevation: 530 m
Max Elevation: 920
Trailhead: Milford road (Hwy 94) at the Divide, 86 km west from Lake Te-Anau
I did not plan on hiking the Routeburn Track. My primary objective was visit to world famous Milford Sound. Except for approach from Tasman Sea, or foot travel, the only access is via 120 km road from Te-Anau. This drive is one fantastic experience, and after Icefields Parkway in Alberta Canada I consider it to be the most scenic road I've ever driven. Some 35 km before Milford Sound the road crests at the Divide -- western terminus of Routeburn Track. I arrived there around noon; I wanted to be at Milford Sound by 4:30 to catch last boat for scenic cruise in the sound. That left me enough time to hike first part of the track to Key Summit and get a feel for this celebrated Kiwi tramp.
Driving up from Te-Anau in mid morning. Clouds are lifting up from Fiordland National Park after couple of days of rain, that also caused temporary closure of Hwy 94 because of landslides. But Kiwi gods eventually smiled at me; the road re-opened and weather was improving. I felt quite excited about finally visiting this fantastic area I wanted to visit for such a long time.
There are many stops along the road worth exploring. Mirror Lakes are about 50 km from Te-Anau. Guided boardwalk and great photo opportunity on clear day. Very much worth the stop.
Routeburn Track Trailhead at the Divide. The clouds were still low at this point, but I hoped they might lift up by the time I reach the Key Summit. It is only about 5 km and 500 vertical on wide well maintained trail. I did not have too much time, so I hiked up pretty fast. Along the way I passed several backpackers who were just starting their traverse towards Lake Wakatipu.
First part of the track steadily gains elevation via several switchbacks through some enchanting Fiordland rainforest
After some 45 minutes of hiking and about 300 m of elevation gain, I arrived to the intersection. Main Routeburn Track continues straight towards Lake Howden Hut; the right fork keeps climbing for another 200 vertical meters towards Key Summit Plateau. Most of the track from now on is in the open. The winds picked up, so I had to put on a layer even if I was still climbing.
I waited for some 15 minutes on the summit, but the clouds finally lifted up enough to give me this view of Mt. Hollyford at the west side of Hwy 94. There are some awesome hiking trails there as well; one could spend entire summer exploring this fantastic area.
I had enough time to hike self-guided boardwalk through wispy goblin moss, before heading down. Needless to say, images from "Lord of the Rings" constantly kept popping in my head.
After returning to my vehicle, I proceeded towards Milford Sound. Here, the last act in Fiordland drama unfolded. This part of road wiggles through narrow glacial valleys climbing towards seemingly unpenetrable sheer wall with ribbons of mist and water trickling down like some giant weeping wall -- enterance to Homer Tunnel. This unreal passage was opened only in 1953. About 1.1 km long, and 10% incline -- one way traffic only! Before you had to walk Milford Track to visit Milford Sound -- or come from Western Ocean side.
On the other side the road descends to Milford Sound. Some people call it "tourist trap"; I think it is spectacular. I took 2 hour boat ride (about 70 NZD) through the sound -- it was worth every cent. My heart and my soul were overwhelmed. This place is simply too wild to be true -- highly recommended!
Routeburn Track is one of New Zealand great walks. It lies at the base of Southern Alps between Mount Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks and is part of Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Area. It can be hiked either from the trailhead at the Divide on State Hwy 94, or from Glenorchy terminus at north west end of Lake Wakatipu. Access is not as tightly controlled as for nearby Milford Track, but huts are usually full during the season and bookings are required. Entire distance is about 45 km and most trampers take 3 days for traverse. This track does not receive as much precipitation as nearby Milford or Kepler tracks, but rain gear is a must -- west winds frequently bring huge amounts of moisture from Tasman Sea. |
I did not plan on hiking the Routeburn Track. My primary objective was visit to world famous Milford Sound. Except for approach from Tasman Sea, or foot travel, the only access is via 120 km road from Te-Anau. This drive is one fantastic experience, and after Icefields Parkway in Alberta Canada I consider it to be the most scenic road I've ever driven. Some 35 km before Milford Sound the road crests at the Divide -- western terminus of Routeburn Track. I arrived there around noon; I wanted to be at Milford Sound by 4:30 to catch last boat for scenic cruise in the sound. That left me enough time to hike first part of the track to Key Summit and get a feel for this celebrated Kiwi tramp.
Driving up from Te-Anau in mid morning. Clouds are lifting up from Fiordland National Park after couple of days of rain, that also caused temporary closure of Hwy 94 because of landslides. But Kiwi gods eventually smiled at me; the road re-opened and weather was improving. I felt quite excited about finally visiting this fantastic area I wanted to visit for such a long time.
There are many stops along the road worth exploring. Mirror Lakes are about 50 km from Te-Anau. Guided boardwalk and great photo opportunity on clear day. Very much worth the stop.
Routeburn Track Trailhead at the Divide. The clouds were still low at this point, but I hoped they might lift up by the time I reach the Key Summit. It is only about 5 km and 500 vertical on wide well maintained trail. I did not have too much time, so I hiked up pretty fast. Along the way I passed several backpackers who were just starting their traverse towards Lake Wakatipu.
First part of the track steadily gains elevation via several switchbacks through some enchanting Fiordland rainforest
After some 45 minutes of hiking and about 300 m of elevation gain, I arrived to the intersection. Main Routeburn Track continues straight towards Lake Howden Hut; the right fork keeps climbing for another 200 vertical meters towards Key Summit Plateau. Most of the track from now on is in the open. The winds picked up, so I had to put on a layer even if I was still climbing.
I waited for some 15 minutes on the summit, but the clouds finally lifted up enough to give me this view of Mt. Hollyford at the west side of Hwy 94. There are some awesome hiking trails there as well; one could spend entire summer exploring this fantastic area.
I had enough time to hike self-guided boardwalk through wispy goblin moss, before heading down. Needless to say, images from "Lord of the Rings" constantly kept popping in my head.
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| Entrance to Homer Tunnel |
After returning to my vehicle, I proceeded towards Milford Sound. Here, the last act in Fiordland drama unfolded. This part of road wiggles through narrow glacial valleys climbing towards seemingly unpenetrable sheer wall with ribbons of mist and water trickling down like some giant weeping wall -- enterance to Homer Tunnel. This unreal passage was opened only in 1953. About 1.1 km long, and 10% incline -- one way traffic only! Before you had to walk Milford Track to visit Milford Sound -- or come from Western Ocean side.
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| Bowen Falls in Milford Sound |
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| Milford Sound Sunset |
On the other side the road descends to Milford Sound. Some people call it "tourist trap"; I think it is spectacular. I took 2 hour boat ride (about 70 NZD) through the sound -- it was worth every cent. My heart and my soul were overwhelmed. This place is simply too wild to be true -- highly recommended!
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