Tongariro Crossing

Mt. Ngauruhoe from Tongariro Crossing

Location:  Tongariro NP, North Island

Distance: ~26 km

Hiking Time: 9,5 hrs

Elevation: 1000+ (including side trip up Mt. Ngauruhoe)

Direction:  North to South Traverse (Mangatepopo to Ketetahi)

Tongariro Crossing, part of Tongariro National Park World Heritage Area, is labeled as "New Zealand best day hike". Before my World 2010 trip I was told by a friend "Get as fast as you can to South Island, but don't skip Tongariro". Working my way south from Auckland, I spent 2 days in the park before continuing to Wellington and hiked the Crossing. Being me, it had to be with a twist. I did side trip up dormant Volcano of Mt. Ngauruhoe ("Mt. Doom" from Lord of the Rings), which put my stamina to the test. Here I felt for the first time the "Land of Wonders" vibe that didn't leave me for the rest of my journey through the Land of the Big White Cloud.

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I spent the night in hostel at Whakapapa Village, which was quite comfortable and clean.  If you are doing one way traverse, advance transportation must be arranged at the park headquarters. I got picked up around 8:30 am; brief 15 minute ride to the park gate coupled with standard "tourist" briefing. The only important info was that last bus from south gate will leave at 6 pm. That gave me about 9 hours to complete the hike. Crossing itself can be comfortably done in about 5-6 hrs for reasonably fit people, but I had Mt. Doom in my sight. I started hiking just before 9 am.

Initial part if mostly flat next to bubbling creek draining Soda Springs. Feeling typical rush of adrenaline I quickly left rest of the pack behind me. I was so grateful for sunshine and blue skies, as this was likely my only visit in this life.

Some people camp at Mangatepopo Hut, which is 5 minute side trip from main trail. About 45 minutes of fast pace up to this point. Elevation gain is yet to start.

Bottom of "Devil Staircase" at about 1400 vertical.  Current Volcano hazard rating was posted -- just like avalanche warnings in Canada -- I thought it was funny (until I saw smoke later on in the day!).  Classic tourist warning followed -- people actually get lost and dehydrated. There was also a toilet which didn't smell exactly like roses, so I continued with no break and soon I was rapidly gaining elevation.

45 minutes later I reached the top of Devil Staircase and branched right on side trail leading up "Mt. Doom". Beaten spurs in the middle are made by scree surfers; for ascent I moved right and utilized minor cliff bands that gave me better footing.

2 hours later I reached the inner crater and soon I was on top of Mt. Ngauruhoe -- about 2300 m altitude, close to 1100 vertical gain and 4 hours from Mangatepopo Trailhead. Lake Taupo, largest in New Zealand, is visible left in the distance. The air was heavy with sulphur, and with good reason too -- note the smoke in center right part of picture! Whole area is one big volcano, and hazard warnings were suddenly making much more sense.

I took 10 minutes break, then I had to run. This is the curse of day hikes -- you never have enough time to properly soak the place. I thought it would be very cool to bring bivi sack and sleep under the stars right here.

I started descent around 1:30 pm. I let the couple I met on the summit go ahead -- they were dislodging way to many rocks, and I had no helmet. What followed is best scree run of my life. For people who hiked in Canadian Rockies -- it is about Yamnuska times 3! What took 2 hours going up, was barely 15 minutes going down. Gaitors are a must.

Yellow crater bellow; Tongariro Crossing rising beyond with Blue Lake in the Distance.



Hiking Yellow Crater after descending from Mt. Doom. I really enjoyed this part. The trail leading up to Tongariro Crossing climbs the ridge ahead on good trail -- about 300 vertical to the highest part of the trail

Enjoying views from Red Crater. Side Trail diverges here left (west) and leads to summit of Mt. Tongariro in about an hour, but I simply did not have enough time.

From top of Red Crater the Trail climbs down sharply to another highlight -- Emerald Lakes, most photographed part of Crossing Hike, visible on so many postcards and calendars. The smell of sulphur was particularly strong here.

Trail leading forward towards Blue Lake visible left of largest Emerald Lake.

Quick photo break by Emerald Lake. View back to the Crossing on the right hand-side photo. There were some people skinny-dipping here; considering all the smoke and sulphur, I was not sure it was such a good idea ;-)



Half an hour hike on flat volcanic floor, followed by small rise leads to cold acidic "Blue Lake" -- perhaps the brightest gem of the day.




Soon after Blue Lake the descent starts. Unnecessary long switchbacks lead to Ketetahi Hut. with optional 15 minute side trip to Ketetahi Hot Springs, for which I did not have time.

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About 20 minutes beyond Ketetahi Hut the trail reached treeline and started switchbacking towards North Terminus -- Ketetahi Car Park. I trail run this part, it was getting dangerously close to 6 pm.  I managed to beat the clock, and got my ride back in entirely full bus. Tired, but satisfied -- I hiked the Crossing, and bagged yet another peak in what seems like never-ending summit quest in my life.

When I woke up next morning ready to leave for Wellington, thick cloud was lying on the Crossing. I could not believe my luck the day before!

I recommend this hike to anyone trekking New Zealand. There are many variations, from day trips to multi-day backpacks. Further useful resources to help plan this extraordinary hike: http://www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz/index.php